What is the advantage of using it instead of nothing? It seals water out from getting inside the bearings and moving parts and prevents corrosion as well as metals seizing together making them easy to remove and service.
Moving parts need lubrication and grease stays put for long periods of time in addition to protecting seals and such from water and dust. It also reduces friction so that moving parts such as bearings do not wear down as quickly. I would recommend always using it over not using any.
Thanks, another question. I have a large packet of graphite lubricant that I bought for bearings a while ago. Can I also use it to grease carvings? Is it the powdered graphite or a graphite impregnated liquid? If it's the powder it would probably work for awhile but not nearly as well as grease. Mainly because grease stays put and resists water, thinner graphite lubricant does not.
Water resistance is the main reason to use grease. You can also use general purpose grease from an auto parts store which is often times cheaper than bicycle specific grease. Which if possible i think it would definitely be worth getting a proper grease rather than the graphite stuff, its not really designed for this sort of application.
Sign up or log in Sign up using Google. Sign up using Facebook. Sign up using Email and Password. Post as a guest Name. Remove the bottom bracket on the frame. You will need the specific bottom bracket tool to your style bottom bracket.
Park Tool makes most, if not all, tools you will need to remove your bottom bracket. Once you have the right tool, you will need to know which way to turn the bottom bracket.
Start with your non drive bottom bracket cup, and this cup will be normal threads. Usually you will go counter-clockwise to loosen up the bottom bracket cup. Next, move to the drive side and now this will be reverse threads, so you will loosen up the bottom bracket cup going clockwise. Continue to spin both sides out until they are out of the frame. Make sure to grab the centerpiece if you have one in your frame.
There isn't always a centerpiece, but if you have one, take it out. Clean the threads on your bottom bracket as well as any other grease on the bearings or inside the cups. Do the same to the bottom bracket centerpiece. Then go to the frame and clean those threads and inspect for any damage. Go through all the parts one more time and make sure everything is clean and has no grease or dirt left on it. Make sure all the parts are ready for install.
This is my secret step that many people don't know about, so you are welcome! I use Teflon pipe tape to wrap the threads of the bottom bracket cup before installation. The Teflon tape helps snug up the bottom bracket and make sure it doesn't come loose. Also, since there is some material between the two metal surfaces, I find there to be much less creaking over time with Teflon tape.
Start wrapping the teflon tape around the threads of the bb, in the correct dirrection. So to start, you need to know which bottom bracket cup you are installing first, and then think about which way you are turning it.
As you remember when we were removing it, the cup threaded in regularly. So when installing the Teflon tape, we want to do one complete layer around the threads with a little bit overlapping, about mm or so.
We want to wrap the threads so the overlapping part of the tape is going with the bottom bracket as we spin it in. Hard to explain in text, but if you have the non-drive cup, and are looking at the bike from the non-drive side, we will be turning the cup clockwise to tighten. So when we start to wrap the Teflon tape, we want to start at the top of the cup if looking at the bike from the non-drive side, and go towards the front of the bike and around the bottom of the cup and back up to the top with a small overlap.
Overlap the teflon tape just by a little bit, you want the tape to not pull right off when you start to thread the cup into the frame. And the same goes for the drive side cup. We will be tightening this counterclockwise and we want to start the tape at the top of the bottom bracket cup and start to wrap it around the cup towards the front of the bike, around the bottom, and back up to the top with a small overlap.
Try to make both cups as tight as possible, and you want the tape to not unravel right away. The Teflon tape is a solid trick once you get it down.
It might take a practice wrap or two. The good news is this stuff is cheap and with one roll you can do tons of bottom brackets. Now we will add some grease to the threads on the frame. I grease all the contact surfaces, threads, and the centerpiece of the bottom bracket cups.
Then, start to thread the cups in. You can also add a little bit of grease on top of the Teflon tape. It won't hurt to have a bit more. Then make sure you are threading the cups the right direction and get those as tight as possible with your hands. You might get a little more resistance with the Teflon tape. When you have it in as far as your hands can spin, grab your tool and spin the rest. Once snug, I tighten up the drive side cup first, and I make that thing really tight.
Some have a torque spec, but I make it as tight as possible without getting crazy. In a normal stance, give it a good yank or push. You don't want this coming loose. Then do the same to the non-drive cup. Add some grease to the installed bottom bracket bearings, making sure to put a decent layer all around the bearing cup and inner race on both sides. Then grab your spacers and start to put them back on the crank the way they came off.
Once you have the spacers and the dust cover on, add some more grease to the dust cover side that will contact the bearing and also on the spindle. Then, slide the spindle into the bottom bracket and give it a couple of taps with your hand to make sure it's all the way through.
Then grab the other dust cover and any spacers there might be and push those on as well. Once you push the spindle through, stack on the spacers in the correct order you took them off in. Add some extra grease to where the crank arm mates with the spindle, as well as the crank bolt. Once you do that, grab your 8mm wrench and start to tighten up the crank arm. Spin the bolt in all the way until it's snug.
Look up the torque spec on your crank arms. Many are around nm, which is pretty damn tight. Most cranks now have a preload adjustment on the spindle. Either way, you want to make sure the cranks are pushed in all the way so that the side with the preload adjuster is as far away from the bottom bracket as possible.
Check more often for bikes enduring high mileages, heavy loads, or wet or dusty conditions. Some components are not designed to be serviced e. Anti-seize and gripper pastes are for assembly not bearing lubrication.
Anti-seize pastes reduce micro movement for screw threads and alloy seatposts. Gripper pastes are used on carbon fibre handlebars and seatposts to reduce the clamping torque needed. Bike grease is often sold in tubes, like toothpaste.
Great for applying gobs of grease to seatposts, it is messy and wasteful for greasing bearings. For bearings, you need a finer nozzle. The classic tool is a grease gun, and for bikes there are essentially two designs:. A quirky but effective option is a 12ml dental syringe e. Monoject The curved tip is ideal for bearing access.
Skip to main content. What grease should I use on my bike and why?
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