Do it yourself I installed that same Basslink in the same car. Other than that, it's just removing the baseboards along the driver and rear driver side doors through into the trunk. Oct 9, 11, 0 0. Sep 9, 3, 0 0. One thing - if you do do it yourself, make sure you fuse all of the power connections!!
A 4 - 8 ga wire running to battery with no fuse on it WILL start fires if a short occurs. You must log in or register to reply here. Post thread. CPUs and Overclocking. Graphics Cards. AnandTech is part of Future plc, an international media group and leading digital publisher. Visit our corporate site. All rights reserved. England and Wales company registration number Top Bottom. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…. The RMS is also the amount of power the amplifier can continuously put out without over heating. When looking at speakers and amplifiers, do not look at the peak power. A speaker or amp can only be run on the peak power for about a minute before it goes bad or overheats.
You want to be running your subwoofers on its RMS rating rather than the peak rating. For best sound, keep the impedance Ohms the same too. This amp has the following ratings when it is in "bridged mode". Smaller speakers like the 8 and 10 inch ones, are very quick to respond and punch better than bigger ones, but are not very loud.
The bigger ones also handle lower frequencies better too. Make sure you buy a subwoofer box that has a hole the same size as your speaker.
We will start with wiring the power from the battery. It is important to get the power from the battery and not the fuse box. Power from the fuse box often is "unclean" and you may hear your engine noise amplified through your speakers.
You could also easily blow a fuse by using the little ones the fuse box has. Start by finding an opening in the car's firewall. This is the metal wall under the hood of the car, closest to the windshield. The other side of the firewall should be the inside of the car. I chose a hole that was behind my glove box and was fairly easy to get to from the engine compartment. Run the majority of the power cable through the hole in the firewall, making sure to leave enough wire to get to the battery.
Strip the insulation off of the wire at the end where the battery is. Wire the in-line fuse to this end if it is not part of the wire already. You want the fuse as close to the battery as possible. Do not connect the wire to the battery yet. Make sure you tape the place where you wired the fuse to the wire, so you don't get a short.
Run the remaining wire under the cars carpeting or through a wire channel, if there is one. You want to get this wire to the trunk of the car. While you have the carpeting loose, run the 16 - 18 gauge wire and the RCA cables from the trunk to as close to the back of the stereo head unit as possible, leave a little slack at both ends. You now need to take the stereo head unit out. It usually requires you either take off the front of the center console, or you use a tool to slide the stereo out of special clips.
After you have the stereo out, look at the back of it. There should be 2 RCA connections. Run the RCA cables through the back of the center console and plug them into the 2 connections on the back of the stereo. If your stereo does not have these connections, you will have to splice the wires into the rear speaker wires. Better yet, go out and by a new stereo that has RCA.
They aren't very expensive any more. You will need to run the 16 - 18 gauge wire through the back of the center console too. This wire tells the amp that the stereo has turned on, and that the amp should too. If you look at all the wires coming out of the back of the head unit, there should be 1 or 2 blue ones. These are called the remote wires. If there are 2 wires, there should be one labeled Amp.
If there is just one blue wire, you can use that. If you have a power antenna, you will have to splice into the blue wire for use with the amp too. What you need to do is connect the 16 - 18 gauge wire to the correct blue wire. When the stereo comes on, so will the amp. If it is a stock stereo on a car without a power antenna and no blue wire, then run the 16 - 18 gauge wire to the fuse box, and connect it to a fuse that turns on when the accessories are on.
Your amp will always be on when your car is on, but it shouldn't make noise, so its OK. If it does make noise like from the engine , add a switch so you can turn it on or off.
Put the speaker in the box, making sure the flimsy thin gasket thing is on it. If the box has its own connectors on the outside, make sure they are wired to the speaker inside.
Screw the speaker into the box, using the holes on the outside rim of the speaker. OK now we have most of the wires in place, we can wire up the amp.
Remote Ant. Connect the 3 foot, 10 gauge wire to the one marked do not connect it to the speaker negative : B- Neg v Gnd Ground Connect the other end of the ground wire to a nearby bolt that connects to the body of the car.
Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Part 1. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Get a wiring kit with all the supplies needed for the installation. The easiest way to do this is to shop for wiring kits. The kit should include several different types of wires over 16 ft 4.
For the installation, you need: [1] X Research source A 20 ft 6. A ground wire at least 3 ft 0. Speaker wire, which can also be bought separately. A amp in-line fuse and fuse holder. Crimp ring terminals for connecting the wires. A plastic crimp connector for the remote wire. Pick a stable, well-ventilated spot for the subwoofers.
Many people choose to put subwoofers in the trunk since it is an open and accessible area. It provides plenty of room for the subwoofer while also leaving space for the amp right next to it. Your sound system will produce heat, so the additional space helps it last longer by keeping it ventilated. Some subwoofer systems include a built-in amp, making this less of a problem. Shut off your car using the key in the ignition, then pop open the hood. Locate the battery, which will look like a square box with a red and black cable connected to a pair of metal prongs on top of it.
These cables are held in place by a pair of metal nuts. Turn them counterclockwise using a regular wrench or a similarly-sized socket wrench. Inspect the battery before touching it.
If you notice corrosion, put on rubber gloves and safety goggles. Part 2. Find an opening in the firewall to feed the power wire through. The firewall is the metal frame separating the engine compartment from the rest of the car. Even though it looks enclosed, it will have an opening for you to use when wiring the subwoofers. This opening is tiny, so it can be hard to see. Shine a light down from above the engine bay to try and spot the opening.
You can also get into the car and look for the opening there. Be careful to avoid cutting any wires. Run the power cable from the battery to the subwoofer.
The power cable is often the longest wire in a wire kit and is colored red, but make sure to check the labeling. Lower the wire down into the engine compartment and through the firewall hole until it emerges inside your car. Then, go inside your car to pull it all the way to the subwoofers. Leave the wire unconnected for now. To make this easier, straighten out a hanger, then curl one end into a hook. Use the hook to guide the wire.
Most cars have a little bit of extra space along the sides for wire storage. Expose these channels by lifting up the carpeting or trim panels. The trim panels are often held in place by plastic pins. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry the pins off. Note where each panel belongs before removal so you have no trouble reinstalling them later. Cut about 6 in 15 cm off the front end of the power wire.
Use something sharp, such as lineman's pliers, that can sever the wire in one stroke. Measure out from the end of the wire in the engine compartment.
Cut through it and set this section aside to reuse later. The in-line fuse you will use to power the subwoofer should be no more than 6 in 15 cm from the battery. Cut the wire so that it extends from the battery to where you plan on placing the fuse. Position wire strippers on the end of the long power cable in the engine compartment. Squeeze the blade down until it breaks through the insulation but not the wire underneath it. Then, pull the cut casing off to expose the wire. Wire strippers are the best tool to use if you want to remove the insulation without risking the underlying wires.
You can also use something like a sharp knife, but be very careful with it. Crimp the exposed wire and plug it into the in-line fuse. To crimp the wire, hold it in the jaws of a wire crimping tool and squeeze it. The crimping tool combines the wires strands into a single, neat ball that fits into one of the openings on the fuse.
Open a terminal by using an Allen key on the hole above it. Turn the key counterclockwise to open the terminal, then insert the power wire and close the terminal again. If it feels easy to move, tighten the terminal with the Allen key a little more. Be careful not to overtighten it. Connect the cut length of wire to the fuse after crimping it.
Pick up the cut length of wire you set aside earlier. Plug the crimped end into the open part of the fuse, using an Allen key to open and close it as needed. This wire will be opposite from the rest of the power wire so you can attach it to the battery. Try anchoring it to the car frame with a screw or cable tie. Hook the power cord to the positive battery terminal with a ring terminal.
Then, push the exposed end through the opening on the ring terminal. The opposite end of the terminal is a metal ring that fits over the positive terminal on your car's battery. Secure it in place by putting the positive battery cable and nut back in place.
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